The first impression is unforgettable, as at dawn the steamer slowly approaches from the bus, the big canal, in the fog, which covers like a veil the charming city - an image out of competition. From afar can be seen the huge panels in St. Mark's Square, in Marciana, along the entire length of Riva Deli Schiavoni, near the bridge of sighs, with the programs of events.
An integral part of Venice's multifaceted history, the carnival takes root some ten centuries ago, when the Catholic Church, in an attempt to give Easter its special significance, identified the holidays in a calendar, delimiting it as a period of necessary relaxation with specific characteristics and duration.
ΓIOPTH ME HISTOPIA
The term "Carneval" in Italian, after all, found its primary explanation in the consumption of meat -Carne Vale- which still characterizes Carnival and all kinds of pleasures, which preceded the great fast of Easter. Over time, in Venice, the carnival took on explosive proportions. It lasted from six months to a year. Everything was allowed in the city of luxury and wealth, with the "blessings" of the religious and secular power, the dogmas, who had also allowed the use of the mask. From the 12th to the 18th century, when the carnival collapsed as an institution, along with democracy, Venice -among other things- had become synonymous with pleasure, attracting the aristocracy of Europe, while the people "consumed" the intrigues and passions. of large families.
It is no coincidence that the mask in Venice, the quintessence of disguise, was first worn by the nobles, so that they could enter and leave undisturbed in popular neighborhoods and hangouts, theaters and monasteries. Well-known conquerors of Europe, such as Giacomo Casanova, who made history in Venice by seducing the "weaker sex" - especially the nuns, since the monasteries also hosted dances! (The whole atmosphere is beautifully attributed to Federico Fellini's "Casanova".) Until the Austrians came and then the French with Napoleon, and they put an end to the carnival.
We had to get to the 1970s, to be revived again, by a group of people who wanted to regain the lost historical splendor of the city with the carnival.
HMEPES ESTASHS
Every year, ten days before Lent, the events culminate, which have already begun in October. Venice is transformed from one end to the other - and with the islands of the lagoon Murano, Burano, Torcello, Lido - in a vast theater setting!
Identified with their role, thousands of accomplices pour into the labyrinth of alleys, in front of Gothic arches, squares, bridges, church terraces. Thousands of costumes, largely inspired by the Commedia dell 'arte, in the 16th century, cut and sewn in theatrical workshops or even in private homes, months ago, with miles of thread and sequins.
Some old ones like that of the harlequin, on the cloth gauze made of pieces or painted with rhombus mantle there is the distant memory of the rag. The whole story of the carnival is reflected in the costumes, sometimes recalling events that are not so pleasant.
As in the famous figure of Dotore, the doctor of the terrible plague, dressed in the macabre black uniform and the characteristic hawk-shaped mask, a memory of this terrible epidemic of 1630, which wiped out a third of the population of Venice and caused some of the most beautiful churches are built, such as Santa Maria de la Salute.
PHANTASMAGOPIA
Some images are not forgotten: the figure of the doge and his guardianship, with the cape and the rings in his hand, wandering in St. Mark's Square and then disappearing towards Danieli, one of the most famous hotels in Europe. In Erberia, in the famous vegetable market, at the pier of Rialto, a beautiful girl in a lemonade costume. The imagination rages, while the costumes have no imitators.
In the amazing theater of Fenice, perfectly repaired after the catastrophic fire of 1996, with important opera and ballet nights, we live the unique atmosphere with the spectators dressed in the spirit of the carnival! In the crowded St. Mark's Square - as in the smaller ones - there is a pandemonium, visitors are unable to stay out of the frenzy party, in a city from every corner where Vivaldi's music can be heard. And the images have no end. Beware of the Satyrs!
METAKINSH
From standing to vaporetta and waiting, prefer walking. The route from piatsa di Roma to Ag. Marco takes less than an hour and you see the whole city.
DIAMONH
The choices between very good traditional hotels, former small palaces and other simpler ones are inexhaustible. Indicative:
Danielli 5 *
Riva degli Schiavoni, 4196, http://danieli.hotelinvenice.com/
It is the most famous hotel in Venice and one of the most famous in Europe, with a double cost starting at 658 euros and reaching the so-called Doge Suite of 3.300 euros!
Gritti Palace 5 *
Campo Santa Maria del Giglio, 2467, tel. +39 041 794611, www.hotelgrittipalacevenice.com, Five stars and this, with similar prices, in the next corner, near the Marciana Library, on the canal.
Cipriani 4 *
Giudecca 10, tel. +39 041 5207744, www.hotelcipriani.com
Cozy hotel in an oasis of greenery, on the canal.
Phoenix and Artists 4 *
San Marco, 1936, tel. +39 041 5232333, www.fenicehotels.com Flooded with antiques and excellent rooms, it is located in one of the most picturesque corners of Venice.
Hotel a la Commedia 4 *
San Marco, 4596 / A - Corte Del Teatro Goldoni, tel. +39 041 2770235, www.commediahotel.com In a quiet location, close to the Palazzo Grassi and the Rialto neighborhood. Excellent.
Hotel Becher 3 *
San Marco 1857, tel. +39 041 5221253, www.hotelbecher.com Quiet, with a refined atmosphere, in the neighborhood of the Fenice theater.
Hotel Concordia 4 *
Calle Larga S.Marco 367, tel. +39 041 5206866, www.hotelconcordia.com
The only hotel right next to St. Mark. Excellent, with very good breakfast and dinner. The only problem is the bells of St. Mark, which do not stop.
Sofitel
Tel. +39 041 710400
Beautiful, at the beginning of the big canal, on the side of Piazza di Roma!
For reservations regarding your stay visit:
www.booking.com
COFFEE, FOOD, POTO
Some of the most beautiful hangouts:
• The Florian Coffee
Castello 5453, www.caffeflorian.com
Top, in St. Mark's Square.
• Marchini Pasticceria
Calle Spadria, San Marco
Located in Agios Markos, it serves the best ice cream in town.
• Al Bottegon
Fondamenta Nani, tel. +39 041 5230034
For pasta with seafood.
Also in the neighborhood of Piastio, the Academy:
• Antica Osteria Ruga Rialto
Sestiere San Polo 692, tel. +39 041 5211243 Atmospheric wine bar and trattoria.
• La Zucca
www.lazucca.it
The pumpkin, as interpreted in Greek, is a wonderful trattoria.
• Trattoria Da Ignazio
www.trattoriadaignazio.com
where you will come after your visit to the fish market.
MASK
The Mistero buffo in Calle San Pantalon is just one of the great places to find good masks. Ideal to see how they are made.